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What Are Good Camera Specs

By David Pierce and Vlad Savov

Cameras are everywhere. There's one in your laptop, two in your phone, and probably a pair in your tablet that yous've never used. There's maybe 1 in your doorbell, even, or strapped to your head while y'all bomb the slopes. Nosotros're taking more pictures in more ways and sharing them in more places than always. Withal well-nigh of us use our cameras with the bare minimum of knowledge, only pointing and shooting and hoping for an Instagrammable moment. And even if y'all're buying a camera because you lot're ready to move beyond your iPhone and take pictures you'll desire to save forever, it'south hard to know what to do.

Photographic camera companies don't exactly make life easy, either. Spec sheets are laden with alien terms similar ISO and f-numbers, and one time you lot manage to become a grasp on what they mean, you're all the same confronted with a spectacular variety of options. So we've put together this guide to aid yous navigate the quagmire of excess information, acronyms, and jargon. It'll enlighten you nigh which specs are important when, and what cameras are suitable for whom. Sound proficient? And then read on!

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A guide to this guide

As with our smartphone buyer's guide, you should be careful not to treat this as a definitive dictum on what to buy. What we're seeking to practise here is help you brand an informed decision by separating the meaningful data from the meaningless. This is a guide to discerning the things that volition brand a recognizable difference in your photographic feel and results. We've selected a few of our favorite cameras in the categories below, merely those will alter over time, whereas the rest of this communication will (hopefully) remain relevant for a long time to come.

Every photographic camera, from the tiny webcam embedded in your laptop to the total-frame pro cameras built by Nikon and Canon, operates under the same ready of basic principles. They come from the very name of photography, the roots of which are the Greek photos, meaning lite, and graph, meaning to describe or record — ergo, a photograph is essentially a map of light. When you accept a picture of your favorite cityscape, y'all're not really documenting the streets, or the skyscrapers, or the milling crowds — you're drawing up a recording of the light reflecting off of them.

The most mutual technique for making this recording is by channelling lite through a lens onto a photosensitive fabric that soaks information technology up and turns it into an prototype. That lite-absorbing canvas was one time picture show, which has since been replaced by electronic sensors in modern digital shooters. In either case, initiating the light capture is washed past opening a shutter in front of the photosensitive surface. By adjusting how long that shutter stays open (shutter speed), the sensitivity of the digital sensor (ISO), and how much light passes through the lens (aperture), you can control exactly how your image appears.

Since light is the only information your camera collects, it should come up as no surprise that well-lit scenes typically come out looking sharper and nicer than dark and moody shots illuminated just past a streetlight — more calorie-free just gives y'all more than data to work with. When shooting in the dark, the camera must work either harder (with higher ISO) or longer (with a slower shutter speed) to properly recreate the image in front of it. That'due south where the flash comes in, a strobe of white calorie-free synchronized with the opening of the shutter. It comes with tradeoffs of its own, though: the force of the wink can wash out fine detail in nearby subjects or atomic number 82 to the infamous red-heart effect. Tripods are also invaluable in counteracting the blur caused by shaky hands. Unfortunately, they tin can do cypher about motion inside your composition, and they aren't exactly portable.

Ultimately, the number ane lesson in photography is that at that place are ever tradeoffs. If you want the best possible image quality, you'll need specialized, expensive, beefy equipment. Should portability be your highest priority, yous'll accept to have that some photos and creative ideas volition be beyond your reach. There are a number of other considerations to take into account when composing an epitome — and, consequently, choosing the all-time camera for the job — which we've detailed below. Once you've wrapped your caput around what they will mean for your intended photography adventure, you should take a good thought of the kind of camera that will best suit your needs.

If you lot're new to digital photography, the iii things you should acquaint yourself with kickoff are the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed. The three work in concert, and if you tin dispense and control them all, you'll take fabulous photos without fifty-fifty touching the rest of your photographic camera. Together, they're known as the Exposure Triangle, because they control how much calorie-free y'all're exposing the photographic camera to (aperture), how sensitive the camera is to that light (ISO), and how long your exposure lasts (shutter speed).

For some help calculating the depth of field for your called photographic camera, aperture setting, and focusing altitude, you lot can utilize Simple DoF on iOS or DoF Estimator for Android.

ISO

Coming from the International System for Standardization, ISO (it'due south non an acronym) describes the lite sensitivity of your photographic camera's sensor set confronting a common standard. It was originally known as "film speed," as it was a static measure of the amount of low-cal a given type of film could absorb, but in modern digital cameras ISO can exist adjusted upwardly and down. Higher ISO means a brighter epitome, which is achieved by digitally amplifying the information collected during exposure. It's an imperfect process that generates errors, which go apparent in your pictures as discoloration and racket — the unattractive speckling consequence you unremarkably see in depression-light photos.

The quality of your photographic camera's sensor and racket-reduction processing will touch the maximum ISO at which you tin produce images that are withal worth using. From among the cameras we've tested ourselves, Canon's 5D Marking Iii and Nikon's D4 are the all-time in that respect. They can shoot at ISO 12,800 the manner most cameras perform at ISO yard, allowing yous to keep shooting in significantly lower calorie-free.

AS BRUCE DICKINSON MIGHT SAY, I'VE GOTTA Accept More LIGHT!

Aperture

Measured using the horribly confusing f-number scale, the aperture is another dead-elementary setting saddled with obtuse nomenclature. Basically, near lenses accept the ability to constrict the light that passes through them using an internal element (called a diaphragm), which tin can be extended and retracted using controls on the camera. If you want more than low-cal in your image, you pull that diaphragm back as far every bit it goes, or if you need less, yous extend it and limit the incoming rays to a narrower, more focused hole. Aperture, therefore, is just a relative measure for the diameter of your lens opening. Lower f-numbers bespeak a wider aperture, with f/2.8 and below being the extremes, while higher ones signify that more lite is beingness blocked.

One side effect of a broad-open lens is that it lets in a lot of unfocused lite rays. The result is a shallow depth of field, meaning anything in front of or behind the area on which you lot're focusing will announced blurry. Wide discontinuity settings tend to tuck the in-focus expanse to a razor-thin sliver, peculiarly on nearby subjects, giving you the much-desired soft background "bokeh" result.

When you want a larger focus, the obvious countermeasure is to tighten up the aperture to f/8 or narrower — it bundles up the incoming light into a more than focused beam, which will result in greater depth to your focus area. The most extreme depth of field furnishings are the exclusive preserve of large-sensor cameras; you just can't accomplish the same defocusing effect with smaller sensors, which retain a generous in-focus depth even at f/ane.iv.

SHUTTER SPEED

Shutter speed controls how long the camera spends collecting light, equally opposed to ISO and aperture, which straight how much light is absorbed at once. It's measured in fractions of a second, then a shutter speed of 1/125 means the shutter is open up for one 125th of a second. Higher shutter speeds mean the camera captures a shorter period of fourth dimension, which is key for getting mistiness-complimentary activeness shots, while lower speeds permit y'all to soak up more than light, albeit at the risk of blurry results if your photographic camera and subject aren't still.

Of course, y'all don't always have to fright move mistiness. Strap your camera to a tripod and you can exploit the mistiness to your reward — that's how the pros create those pictures of highways decorated past streaks of light or waterfalls that look like they're composed of cascading wisps of smoke instead of frozen drops of water. Most of the time, you'll desire to lucifer your settings to your circumstances, but information technology'due south besides good fun to sometimes first with a given set of attributes and rearrange your scene to friction match them.

Other features that matter

Other features that matter

The trifecta to a higher place represents the most important controls on your camera, simply there are other attributes yous need to be mindful of in the pursuit of the best image quality.

LENS SHARPNESS

Y'all tin tweak your settings every bit much as you lot similar, just without a truly precipitous slice of glass to filter light through, your pictures volition never expect their best. The stardom betwixt sharpness and softness in imaging is one of detail: sharp photos retain a articulate separation between edges and colors right downward to a pixel level.

Unfortunately, nobody has withal invented an like shooting fish in a barrel metric for quantifying lens quality, so y'all won't be able to but walk into a store and lodge upwardly the Superlative Edition of your favored lens. Part of the trouble is that lens performance varies both with aperture and zoom level. The sharpest lenses at f/4 are typically f/ane.viii or f/1.4 lenses that have been pulled back from their highest setting. Similarly, lenses start to exhibit distortion at the extreme wide (16mm and lower) and telephoto (135mm and in a higher place) ends of their zoom range, which some cameras are able to automatically right for with software.

LENSES ARE Similar SUNSCREEN: Earth-shaking

There are a couple of easy guiding principles that can steer you in the right direction. Kickoff: structure materials matter. Catechism's 50 series of lenses and the higher end of Nikon'southward Nikkor line are both congenital out of existent glass on the inside and extremely robust materials on the exterior. The kit lenses bundled with DSLRs and the not-removable lenses on cheaper cameras are made from plastic both on the inside and out, which makes them less reliable in the long term and less impressive when you lot come to review your results. That's non a universal rule — there are some uncommonly good lenses with plastic optics — but more often than not, you'll be able to tell a good lens by its considerable weight and durable experience.

The second bespeak to remember is that prime lenses — those without a zoom office, whose focal length is fixed — tend to perform better than zoom lenses thanks to their simpler construction. For the absolute all-time results, y'all'll desire a camera capable of exchanging lenses, along with wide-aperture lenses at each of the most mutual focal lengths: 24mm, 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, and 200mm, for example. That's more than than a backpack'due south worth of gear to heave around with you (and quality glass weighs quite a flake anyway), so do it only if y'all're unwilling to compromise a footling sharpness for a lot more flexibility.

AUTOFOCUS

A mutual misconception is that shutter lag actually has annihilation to practise with the shutter. Sure, at that place'southward a minuscule filibuster betwixt the teaching to open up and the shutter actually opening, but the lion's share of lag actually comes from the automated focusing and metering systems. Metering is where the photographic camera judges how long it needs to expose the image for, while autofocus is a little more self-explanatory. Cameraphone makers accept gotten wise to the fact that people want to see the picture taken the moment they press a button, so we now accept phones that continuously refocus and re-meter the scene then as to be ready at a moment's notice. Samsung even features a "Best Shot" feature on the GS4, which takes a dozen photos while you're focusing and firing and and so chooses the all-time one automatically.

Every phone and camera maker is trying to dodge the trouble of focusing speed, but the just true solution is more focusing points on your camera combined with a faster focusing motor for the lens. The reliability and speed of autofocus, specially in low light, is one of the ways in which professional cameras still stand up head and shoulders to a higher place the rest. Canon'south EOS 1D-10 packs in a whopping 61 AF points, 41 of them of the more precise cross-type diverseness. Stick a fast-focusing lens on that camera and you can bid goodbye to shutter lag.


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SENSOR SIZE

If there's i rule to follow in photography, it'southward that bigger sensors mean better photos. That's a generalization, of class, simply information technology's based on a very basic empirical truth: the bigger the photosensitive surface area, the more light is taken in at a time. Practical testify for this is abundant, from the Nikon one series that disappointed everyone with its undersized CX sensor, to the Nokia Lumia 1020, the best cameraphone on the market place largely thank you to its enormous 1/1.v-inch sensor.

Full-frame cameras derive their name from the size of their sensors, which match the "full frame" of 35mm film, and are predictably the professional's favorite option. With a full-frame camera, a 24mm lens gives yous exactly that focal length, whereas with smaller sensors, you're bailiwick to a ingather factor that tends to turn everything into a slightly more than zoomed-in version of itself (i.e. if the sensor is ane.5 times smaller than full-frame, as with Nikon's popular DX format, you get ane.5 times the focal length; with a 24mm lens; that'd mean an effective focal length of 36mm).

Alas, toll and sensor sizes scale rather proportionally, so medium format and full-frame cameras are usually outside the reach of most enthusiasts, which is why the most popular digital SLRs like the Catechism Rebel T4i today feature the APS-C format. Information technology'due south a happy compromise.

MEGAPIXELS

Strictly speaking, a megapixel contains 1 million pixels, but it's somewhat meaningless to know that your photographic camera shoots ten meg pixels at a fourth dimension. What you lot desire to know, and what the megapixel count truly tells y'all, is how big you tin can make your image without having to enlarge it digitally (and endure the resultant degradation in image quality). A three-megapixel photo is more dumbo enough to be printed out at the US standard 6- past iv-inch size at 300ppi, while 9 megapixels get you closer to a regular sheet of paper at the same density. Compromise a trivial on the pixel density, say down to 200ppi, and you'll get massive printouts from a humble old 12-megapixel shooter. Now, in that location are no guarantees that the bodily photo would look skillful — megapixel numbers only mensurate the number of data points recorded by the camera — but at least you'll be able to do it.

Practically speaking, however, you're not likely to need such huge images. Most digital imaging ends up being consumed on computer screens, and if all you need are new contour shots for Facebook even a solitary megapixel volition suffice. If you're shooting for billboards, murals, or other enormous photo sizes, you should get all the megapixels you tin (like the whopping 36 from the Nikon D800) but for the average photographer, other specs matter far more.

VIEWFINDER / LCD

Optical viewfinders are a funny affair. Until you use one, you wonder why everyone bothers with the endeavor, then y'all get your get-go DSLR and all of a sudden you tin't alive without 1. Mirrors in SLR cameras reflect the verbal image that will exist imprinted onto the sensor through a sort of porthole atop the camera: that's your viewfinder. One time again, the more expensive models offer a more luxurious feel, with the Catechism 7D and Nikon D700 featuring bigger, more comfortable viewfinders than entry-level DSLRs. Electronic viewfinders (EVF) are getting much better and starting to compete, particularly in Sony'due south line of single-lens translucent (SLT) cameras like the A77, and they offer helpful guides and more data to make your shot better anyway. Information technology's features vs. accuracy, and while the purists tend to stick with optical viewfinders, the electronic variety is catching up apace.

If your camera doesn't have a viewfinder, then you lot'd better brand damn sure it's equipped with a practiced LCD. You'll be using it to both frame and review photos, so any shortcomings in terms of color fidelity or resolution can force you into a guessing game y'all don't want to play. LCD resolution is measured in dots, with 230,000, 460,000, and 920,000 being the typical values. The more dots the better, obviously, simply do accept a moment to check out the quality of the screen also. Sony and Samsung are using OLED displays in some of their latest cameras, which wait fantastic. Touchscreens are finally starting to go good, too, from the tap-to-focus features on the Olympus PEN Eastward-P5 to the completely bear upon-friendly Canon T4i — they're non essential yet, but are increasingly a corking thing to have.

WHITE Rest

Like a big-name player who's likewise important to sit in the center of the cast listing but non so crucial as to headline the bear witness, the photographic camera'southward white residue (WB) gets a dedicated slot at the end. This is the function that everyone leaves on car, which is why the majority of indoor pics on Facebook look xanthous. In uncomplicated terms, cameras are a bit dumb. If you don't tell them that you're nether incandescent lights (which bandage a yellowish hue), they won't account for it and volition try to residuum the colors earlier them based on their presets. All modern cameras have a WB preset for artificial lighting, only only the more than professionally inclined ones requite you granular control over white balance and the power to easily tweak information technology on the fly.

The best solution we've found for overcoming unnatural colour tinging is to feed your camera a sample image. The majority of DSLRs now have the selection to set WB by taking an paradigm of something that you know is white under the item lighting conditions you intend to shoot in. Thus, when the photographic camera snaps a prissy white sheet of newspaper under the lurid orangish and violet lights of a merchandise show floor, information technology'll calibrate itself to know that white looks a petty different at that spot.

VIDEO CAPABILITIES

Information technology was but a few years ago that video recording was considered a novelty in all the same cameras, but today HD video is a standard, and causeless, feature. Yet, there are pitfalls to beware, such every bit a selection of cameras that will lock the focus and zoom when video recording starts (for case, the otherwise excellent Canon S95), significantly limiting your options. Reliable autofocus, in the cameras that are capable of it, remains a mirage. You'll do well to learn to love transmission focus if y'all want your videos to be complimentary of the irritating focus jumps that cameras do when they get confused as to what you're trying to moving-picture show.

Cameras with larger sensors make capturing video a harder process compared to simpler point-and-shoots, attributable to their greater sensitivity, bulkier bodies, and typically mechanical zoom and focus mechanisms. They give yous more to worry about, as lens operation noises are often picked up by the integrated microphone. Nevertheless they as well provide admission to a range of cinematic effects that smaller cams tin can't touch. Want to start your movie masterpiece with a gorgeously circular bokeh that gradually comes into focus on your leading man? You'll need something in the grade of a Canon 60D with a wide-aperture lens to match.

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ZOOM

Zoom is a unproblematic concept — information technology's how shut you lot can get to whatever you're shooting without having to physically motility closer — only it's not e'er obvious what you're really getting. The actual x-multiple of your zoom is much less important than the angle measurements at the widest and closest settings, which measure how much you can fit into your photo. A camera that starts at 28mm and has 10x zoom will ultimately go closer (280mm) than one that begins at 24mm (240mm when zoomed in), though the tradeoff is a slightly smaller field of view when you're zoomed out. If you want to be every bit close as possible to your subject, the almost important number is the telephoto bending — more then than the 10-multiple.

Simply be warned: cameras with huge zoom tend to be hard to concur steady when zoomed in, and so getting sharp photos might exist tough fifty-fifty with the best image stabilization. Additionally, as we've mentioned, smashing zoom comes with image quality dropoffs — lens makers take to compromise on something, so if you're going after a massive zoom range, it won't deliver sublime images the way a fixed focal length might.

When it comes to zoom operation, fixed-lens cameras take the upper hand. They usually have powered zoom mechanisms, allowing you lot smooth control at the press of a button. Interchangeable lenses are more fiddly for the newcomer, as their zoom is usually (but not always) controlled mechanically with a ring effectually the torso of the lens. That gives more than granular command to those who want information technology, but can be off-putting to the casual user.

Finally, do yourself a favor and ignore the very idea of a "digital zoom." It's done either by enlarging the picture (and reducing its quality) or cropping down to a smaller surface area of the sensor, both of which yous can do much amend with dedicated post-processing software on your computer — a few phones like the Lumia 1020 offer clever means to zoom and re-process on your device, but they can't lucifer Photoshop or even your boilerplate desktop viewer.

IMAGE STABILIZATION

Equally with digital zoom, digital image stabilization (IS) is more of a marketing ploy than a useful characteristic. The optical stuff, however, is a whole other story. Lenses with optical IS are equipped with internal elements that move in the reverse direction of any pocket-sized movements you make, steadying the epitome that arrives onto the sensor. Nikon's "Vibration Reduction" is especially effective, assuasive you to shoot at two or three steps slower shutter speed than you usually would be able to without move blur. For case, if 1/40 shutter speed is your floor before you get-go seeing blurring on a regular lens, its VR version will move that down to 1/25. Canon's version of this is called the "Optical Epitome Stabilizer," Panasonic'southward is "MegaOIS," and virtually every other photographic camera and lens maker has its own diversity besides.

Sony and Olympus have made a habit of building image stabilization right into the body of their DSLRs, simplifying lens pattern and reassuring users that all of their lenses will exist stabilized. Ultimately, whichever system you choose, each serves the purpose of reducing the deleterious furnishings of unintended motion and should be considered highly desirable in a camera. If you're going after a shooter with a long telephoto zoom, optical IS should be the commencement thing you await for.

Wrap-up

Wrap-up

Buying a photographic camera's never been easier — it'due south hard to get one that won't take decent pictures without a lot of endeavour — but buying the correct camera still takes some doing. Ultimately there are a lot of things to consider, and a lot of numbers to ignore, simply the fundamental is to effigy out what kind of photographer you are.

If you're going to be running later on your kids taking pictures, you probably don't want a big, beefy DSLR – look at mirrorless cameras similar the Panasonic GX1 or even bespeak-and-shoots like the Canon S110. Mayhap fifty-fifty make sure you lot purchase the right phone, from the Nokia Lumia 1020 to the iPhone 5. But if you desire the best, biggest, about controllable photos money can buy, make sure you buy a camera yous can grow into. DSLRs offer more control and more than lenses, and they're capable of capturing a wider range of photos and video.

It's certainly true that the best photographic camera is the one you have with you lot. But the best photos come from having the right camera with you — so store advisedly, don't forget that more money and more megapixels don't always make great cameras, and always recollect your exposure triangle.

Happy shooting!

Source: https://www.theverge.com/2012/1/2/2663464/camera-buyers-guide

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